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Routes in North Twin

West Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 710 total, 27/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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13 Opinions

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Description

A long approach past Dailey Prairie to a ridge of solid sticky golden dunite. Once you've endured the slog, the route slowly turns from exposed hiking between stands of little fir trees into some sporting alpine scrambling. Options for 5th class abound. Easy route finding (just follow the ridge crest) with beautiful views and solid grippy rock! Lots of unnecessary handjams and fingerlocks can be had.

Excellent write-up on Summit Post.

Protection

Most do it in a pair of sturdy hiking boots. If descending the north slope, bring ice and crampons. Helmets are always a good idea.

Directions

Drive to Acme, WA. Take Mosquito Lake Rd east for awhile, cross a one-lane bridge, then turn right into a gravel pit and follow the road out the other side. This is "Middle Fork of the Nooksack River" FS Road. Stay right at all forks. Just after crossing the bridge over Clearwater Creek, stay right at the final fork and stop at the bridge. The gate was closed for us. There are some nice campsites here.

Approach

Follow the road as it switches back up the Nooksack river valley. Do not take any branches, just continue straight towards Mt. Baker. Cross a bridge over a creek, then turn right at a quarry. Cross the bridge mentioned in the description, and then through Dailey Prairie towards the now-obvious west ridge. Take the first distinct single-track trail on your left (second overgrown logging road). Follow this up a couple switchbacks until the brush thickens. There will be a large firepit on your left - ditch bikes here. Continue up the trail until it emerges on the ridge.
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
We attempted it 7/2/17. Roughly 12 miles and lots of vertical to base of the ridge and back. Utterly useless descriptions in the Beckey guide.

Two things are required to make this an enjoyable one-day experience. First, a mountain bike. You can ride it most of the way up. Second, ice axe and crampons. You will DEFINITELY want to glissade the north slope. This will require that you do it fairly early season. This year, the snow on the north slope was still thick and wide even in early July, but it probably wasn't like this in previous years. Jul 3, 2017