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Routes in McHenry's Peak
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Dog Cheese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dog Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream of Babylon Burning T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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House Of Cards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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LV 426 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Pair Of Jacks aka Jacks or Better To Open T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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SE Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Ridge/Powell Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | Tod Anderson, Scott Moore, Rich Magill, Tom Hanson |
| Page Views: | 1,292 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tzilla Rapdrilla on Oct 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Falsely listed in the new Fixed Pin guide as Orion's Belt, this route ascends the face to the left of Dog Star. Dog Cheese turned out to be a surprisingly nice route given the vague route descriptions in the guidebooks available at the time, and it was great to find a new line.
The route starts near Dog Star, and a black stained corner was attempted, but the pro seemed uncertain, so an exit around that to the left was used to access the upper part of the wall. Various grassy ledges and slabs lead to the steeper upper wall.
An angling crack that came in around low to mid-5.10 was encountered in the middle portion of the route with a bit of an overlap. Cracks and corners led up to the final obstacle at a ledge high on the wall. A final steep finger crack seemed the most protectable option and was probably the crux of the route overall.
After Scott and I topped out, we enjoyed watching Tom and Rich climb the final pitch from the ridge. Tom asked if the crack was 5.8, perhaps hoping for a quick finish? I noted that it was more like 10+, but I had at least cleaned out the key gear placements already. An epic hike out took us most or all of the night.
It is obvious that the Fixed Pin errors were intentional considering that they had the other three members of the FA team listed and most of the route details correct. During this climb, I led all the pitches, and Scott and I were the first of the two teams on the wall that day.
The route starts near Dog Star, and a black stained corner was attempted, but the pro seemed uncertain, so an exit around that to the left was used to access the upper part of the wall. Various grassy ledges and slabs lead to the steeper upper wall.
An angling crack that came in around low to mid-5.10 was encountered in the middle portion of the route with a bit of an overlap. Cracks and corners led up to the final obstacle at a ledge high on the wall. A final steep finger crack seemed the most protectable option and was probably the crux of the route overall.
After Scott and I topped out, we enjoyed watching Tom and Rich climb the final pitch from the ridge. Tom asked if the crack was 5.8, perhaps hoping for a quick finish? I noted that it was more like 10+, but I had at least cleaned out the key gear placements already. An epic hike out took us most or all of the night.
It is obvious that the Fixed Pin errors were intentional considering that they had the other three members of the FA team listed and most of the route details correct. During this climb, I led all the pitches, and Scott and I were the first of the two teams on the wall that day.
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