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Routes in Taboo Crack
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Dirty Carpenters Ghost Hands, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Dirty Contractor, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Slabby Slab Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Taboo Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 44.65479, -72.72317 |
| FA: | Kristian Barrowman (rope solo) 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,058 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Kuchyt on Sep 8, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
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Description
Make some tricky initial moves in a left-facing corner past a bolt to gain the main crack. Patience placing gear will yield good protection. Climb the main crack (pin) to easier but unprotected climbing to the anchor. Var 1: 5.7 PG - Before the Taboo Crack - ride the lowest portion of the traversing flake into the crack as early as possible (possible ground fall) while staying above the lip of the roof and below the first bolt. Set seams with micros and cruise to the top. Var 2: PROJECT - Begin below the roof on shady flakes and crust with pebbles, one large pocket, to corner jug starting the Taboo Crack, pull roof with awkward feet, climb Taboo Crack to finish.
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