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Routes in Zoonotic
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Cowpox T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mad Cow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Fever T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monkeypox T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Marta Reece, Jesse Sharp, 8-18-2015 |
| Page Views: | 89 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Marta Reece on Aug 19, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas
Details
The Organ Mountains are in the Organ Mountains Desert Peaks National Monument which includes eight Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs). Placing new bolts, even if hand-drilled, is not allowed in WSAs. Please see section 1.6, D5, (g) at the BLM Manual 6330—Management of BLM Wilderness Study Areasblm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… document for the policy regarding fixed anchors in WSAs. More about the Organ Mountain Desert Peaks National Monument, including maps showing the WSAs, can be found here.organmountains.org/wilderness/
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
The Access Fund has some helpful informationaccessfund.org/open-gate-bl… about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
Description
Monkeypox shares first pitch with Cowpox, then follows a crack system to the right, past a ridge line, and continues up a corner toward the top of the right side of Zoonotic.
Pitch 1, 5.7, (identical to Pitch 1 of Cowpox). Go up a shallow draw to the right of the chimney splitting Zoonotic. Stop at a large crack about 6 feet past the end of the chimney.
Pitch 2, 5.5, go up along the line of small blocks clustered around a crack (see image). Stays below the large block on the ridge line. Belay from a comfortable spot on the ridge.
Pitch 3, 5.6, traverse right under the wall using a bridge of boulders (protectable). Go up the nice, clean corner to its end, then continue slightly left over easy terrain to the ridge and along the ridge to the top.
Pitch 1, 5.7, (identical to Pitch 1 of Cowpox). Go up a shallow draw to the right of the chimney splitting Zoonotic. Stop at a large crack about 6 feet past the end of the chimney.
Pitch 2, 5.5, go up along the line of small blocks clustered around a crack (see image). Stays below the large block on the ridge line. Belay from a comfortable spot on the ridge.
Pitch 3, 5.6, traverse right under the wall using a bridge of boulders (protectable). Go up the nice, clean corner to its end, then continue slightly left over easy terrain to the ridge and along the ridge to the top.
Location
Starts just to the right of the main gully which splits Zoonotic, ends at the top of the slab on the right side of it.
To get down, you can do an exposed scramble to the left and walk off as for Cowpox. Rapelling off the large live tree at the top of the slab is another option. To keep the rope from snagging on a lower tree, we stopped at the first large ledge with a second rappel of this lower tree.
To get down, you can do an exposed scramble to the left and walk off as for Cowpox. Rapelling off the large live tree at the top of the slab is another option. To keep the rope from snagging on a lower tree, we stopped at the first large ledge with a second rappel of this lower tree.
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