Waiting on Dylan
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 49.64457, -123.2109 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,642 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Hans Bauck on Aug 11, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
What is it?
Waiting for Dylan is a 5.10d sport climb at Woodstock, with about 10 bolts in 25 metres.
A reachy start leads to a steep jug haul followed by a tricky move left. Some easy ground in the middle section leads to a very thin crux section at the end. Very well bolted and without the ledge fall potential of some of the other routes at the crag.
I thought the route was a bit of a sandbag at 10d. Though most of it was straightforward, the finish felt like V3-4 to me. Maybe others can weigh in.



4 Comments