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Routes in Gnome Dome

Crack Problem V0 4
Fat Freddy's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fat Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat Monkey's Birthday T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fogged Glass Nudity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leave My Monkey Alone T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Kellen Bowers and Zack McKendery, 2010
Page Views: 127 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I don't usually give routes bomb ratings, but this route deserves one. You make a mantle move to the first bolt, and then head up a thin crack above and a little to the right. You can place small gear here. There is a thin crack above, but I moved left to a vegetation-filled crack and moved up to the ledge. Knowing there was no pro to be had above, I made an anchor here. You could climb to the top, but there is no pro and no anchor to be had. You can tunnel back through a thin slot which leads to the top. The route is not very fun.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the crag and is left of Fat Head. You can see the single bolt from the ground. From the very top, walk to the right to descend. From the bushy ledge, if you belay here, go back through a tight slot to the top, and then walk off to the right.

Protection

One bolt and a standard rack to a #2 Camalot. There are no anchors. It is hard to build an anchor on top. You can build a anchor on a small, bushy ledge before the top. I did this with a nut and a #1 and a #2 Camalot.

Photos

Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
This route was put up in 2010 and is called Fogged Glass Nudity. The route follows the seam up right and good gear can be had (RPS and offsets). Gear anchor to be had at the horizontal or walk off the left via the chimney. FA party includes Kellen Bowers and Zack Mckendery. Aug 9, 2016