Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gnome Dome

Crack Problem V0 4
Fat Freddy's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fat Head T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fat Monkey's Birthday T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fogged Glass Nudity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leave My Monkey Alone T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 71 total, 0/month
Shared By: Jeff Buhl on May 25, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fat Monkey's Birthday combines the first pitch of 'Fat Head' and the second pitch of 'Leave my monkey alone'. Take the obvious crack line from the lower face up through the upper roof.

Pitch 1: Follow the right trending flake / crack up through the lower face to the "cave". From here you can either exit through a hole in the back of the cave or continue on to pitch 2. There is a bit of lichen on the lower part and the rock gets a bit granular towards the top of this pitch (A little more traffic and it will clean up nicely).

Pitch 2: Place some gear and commit to solid yet strenuous hand jams out and over the roof.

Protection

Bring a rack of cams including 1xgreen and yellow aliens, and camalots from #.75-#4. Perhaps an extra #1,#2, and #3 camalot to account for anchors.

Photos

Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
As I commented under the rock. Be careful with your foot placements pulling the roof. Tha hand jams are great, but I had multiple foot holds just pop right off while pulling around. Fun route. May 26, 2004