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Routes in The Wedge

Beast of Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Book of Easy Learning T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fisticuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost of a Smile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leggo My Ego S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nineveh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not of this State S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vein Imagination T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wisdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Grant Walker, Eric Sloan, '96
Page Views: 584 total, 20/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

The length, exposure, rock quality, and movement of this climb make it a Chugach classic. Start in the gully below the belay ledge nook for Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning. Climb a face-arete for five bolts (careful: the nut on the fifth bolt is loose and needs to be tightened) to a crack. Ascend the crack (probably the crux of the route) with gear to a prominent rock ledge. Follow the angled ledge up and to the left. There's another bolt at the left end of the ledge; it's ~35m to this point. Two options from here: build an anchor using the bolt and a thin crack to its right (small cam and medium stopper), or clip the bolt and continue up passing two more bolts (and cracks that can be used to reduce runout) then move right to a nice ledge with two bolt anchor. The ledge with the two bolt anchor is a much more comfortable belay spot for pitch two, but it's about 40-45m from the ground and there will be some rope drag finishing the first pitch (use extended draws accordingly). However, this will reduce rope drag on pitch two. From the two bolt anchor, ascend the crack system with gear to the top of the tower. The top of the tower is large and flat with another two bolt anchor (which should be replaced soon). Walk-off recommended (double-rope rappel possible).

Location

Just down gully from the nook that hosts Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning.

Protection

8 bolts, gear to 3" (can be done with gear to 2"), 2 bolt anchors for both pitches (or 1 bolt and gear anchor for pitch one)

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