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Routes in The Wedge

Beast of Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Book of Easy Learning T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fisticuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost of a Smile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leggo My Ego S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nineveh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not of this State S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vein Imagination T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wisdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 125 ft
FA: Matt Kline, Wes Schaffer, '96
Page Views: 331 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the chimney-crack system utilizing stems, edges, jams, and jugs.

Location

NE aspect Peak 4160 (Wedge ridge) towers at ~3000' elevation. Above and behind the first tower (which hosts S&G, Nineveh, and Great Expectations); climb around the first tower to the right then go left and drop down the gully behind it. Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning are in a nook off to the right of the gully (when descending). Then comes Vain Imagination, Timeless, and Beast of Burden as you continue down this gully.

Protection

Gear, one pin, gear anchor.

There are good placements for gear to 5", but smaller gear will suffice (especially with doubles).

Anchor options may exist but there is a good crack in a boulder right at the top out that will accept small cams and medium-large nuts (see photo).

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Can belay at the bolt at the base of Fisticuffs. Back up the bolt. Jun 26, 2017

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