Type: Trad, Alpine, 125 ft
FA: Matt Kline, Wes Schaffer, '96
Page Views: 423 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the chimney-crack system utilizing stems, edges, jams, and jugs.

Location

NE aspect Peak 4160 (Wedge ridge) towers at ~3000' elevation. Above and behind the first tower (which hosts S&G, Nineveh, and Great Expectations); climb around the first tower to the right then go left and drop down the gully behind it. Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning are in a nook off to the right of the gully (when descending). Then comes Vain Imagination, Timeless, and Beast of Burden as you continue down this gully.

Protection

Gear, one pin, gear anchor.

There are good placements for gear to 5", but smaller gear will suffice (especially with doubles).

Anchor options may exist but there is a good crack in a boulder right at the top out that will accept small cams and medium-large nuts (see photo).

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Can belay at the bolt at the base of Fisticuffs. Back up the bolt. Jun 26, 2017
Kevin Downie  
 
Great climb with a fun variety of stemming moves. We found the grade to be consistent throughout the climb with ample places to place gear. The rock quality diminishes in the last 20 feet of the climb, but placements can still be found and it is easy climbing. Sun was off the face by 10:45 on July 13, so arrive early or be prepared to dress warm. We approached the climb around the pillar on climbers right. There is similar looking chimney, just as you descend around the pillar but it is short perhaps 40'. Continue to descend and you will see "Wisdom" and "Book of Easy learning". Excellent climb, making the approach and cold temps worth while. Jul 14, 2018