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Routes in The Wedge

Beast of Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Book of Easy Learning T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fisticuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost of a Smile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leggo My Ego S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nineveh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not of this State S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vein Imagination T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wisdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Matt Kline, Wes Schaffer, '96
Page Views: 309 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jul 11, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Climb a clean fist crack, with featured faces on both sides, through a very small roof exiting left in the rock choked upper crack to a large tundra ledge with gear or sling belay.

Location

Peak 4160 (Wedge ridge) NE aspect towers at ~3000' elevation. Above and to the right of Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning. Can be accessed by scrambling up gully and going left to a large ledge above Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning or climbing either of those climbs and going right on the ledge above them. Walk off.

Protection

Gear to 4". Anchor with long runners or cord on a large horn/buried boulder feature. This feature also has a ~1-2" crack for a gear belay. Other anchor options may exist.

Photos

Mat Brunton  
 
SCAR guide has it rated at 5.10- I believe. Definitely thought that was warm and fuzzy, especially relative to other area routes. Jun 27, 2017
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.8
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.8
Soft for the grade when compared to Timeless. Super enjoyable, left a second double length runner on the slung block, a crack exists to the right for medium/small cams.

Route is about 50ft of climbing. Jun 25, 2017
Mat Brunton  
 
The dirty crack left of Fisticuffs is reportedly a 5.7, gear to 2", FA Eric Sloan 1996. Aug 15, 2015
andy ducomb
anchorage
andy ducomb   anchorage
any word on the corner to the left of fisticuffs? i had a nice time getting spit out of it once. Aug 15, 2015
Mat Brunton  
 
Be very careful of rock fall in this area! It is a hazard scrambling to and from climbs. It is a hazards on climbs. Triggered rock fall is a hazard to others in the area due to the channeled nature of the terrain where climbs are located. Be mindful of other parties! Jul 12, 2015