Type: Trad, Alpine, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: Wes Schaffer, Grant Walker, Eric Sloan, '96
Page Views: 1,091 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jul 11, 2015
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

3 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Scramble up solid and loose rock from the gully to a nook with small belay ledge, which doesn't offer much space or anchor opportunity. Climb easy 5th class on mostly solid blocks, with avoidable tundra patches, through cleaner and more solid blocky rock into a corner with a crack. Climb the crack, with features on the faces of both corners, up and through a small roof. Exit left onto a low angle slab, then scramble up to the big tundra ledge for a gear anchor.

Location Suggest change

NE aspect Peak 4160 (Wedge ridge) towers at ~3000' elevation. Above and behind the first tower (which hosts S&G, Nineveh, and Great Expectations); climb around the first tower to the right then go left and drop down the gully behind it. Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning are in a nook off to the right of the gully (when descending). Then comes Vain Imagination, Timeless, and Beast of Burden as you continue down this gully.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 3" with cam doubles nice. Gear anchor in a low, horizontal crack (~.5-1.5") on a large boulder feature on the tundra ledge (a large stopper and BD .5 and .75 work nicely). Other anchor options may exist.