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Routes in The Wedge

Beast of Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Book of Easy Learning T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fisticuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost of a Smile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leggo My Ego S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nineveh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not of this State S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Timeless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vein Imagination T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wisdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 125 ft
FA: Wes Schaffer, Grant Walker, Eric Sloan, '96
Page Views: 157 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jul 11, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Scramble up solid and loose rock from the gully to a nook with small belay ledge, which doesn't offer much space or anchor opportunity. Climb easy 5th class on mostly solid blocks, with avoidable tundra patches, through cleaner and more solid blocky rock into a corner with a crack. Climb the crack, with features on the faces of both corners, up and through a small roof. Exit left onto a low angle slab, then scramble up to the big tundra ledge for a gear anchor.

Location

NE aspect Peak 4160 (Wedge ridge) towers at ~3000' elevation. Above and behind the first tower (which hosts S&G, Nineveh, and Great Expectations); climb around the first tower to the right then go left and drop down the gully behind it. Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning are in a nook off to the right of the gully (when descending). Then comes Vain Imagination, Timeless, and Beast of Burden as you continue down this gully.

Protection

Gear to 3" with cam doubles nice. Gear anchor in a low, horizontal crack (~.5-1.5") on a large boulder feature on the tundra ledge (a large stopper and BD .5 and .75 work nicely). Other anchor options may exist.

Photos

Mat Brunton  
 
Be very careful of rock fall in this area! It is a hazard scrambling to and from climbs. It is a hazards on climbs. Triggered rock fall is a hazard to others in the area due to the channeled nature of the terrain where climbs are located. Be mindful of other parties! Jul 12, 2015