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Routes in Far Right (Warmup Area)

Bolt Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drill and Repetition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hoi Polloi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hook It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam or Slam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patti's Butt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V4 6B
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 565 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jesse Bryant on Jun 25, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.7, 60ft) - Run up to the first bolt, which is about 25 feet off the ground on the right-facing side of the corner just before it gets steep. As it gets steeper there is a second bolt in the steep, blocky section. As the pitch flattens out the easy crack could take a 4 or 5 cam or you can just run it out to the anchor, which is just to the right of a very obvious tree.

P2 (5.7+, 70ft) - Slab climbing above the tree and past a newer sapling that can be slung as quick protection. A smaller cam can be placed too before the first bolt, which is about 20ft above the belay ledge. Five or six draws to the top, which is on a huge dirty platform below the beginning of an obvious right-facing corner. This is some of my favorite moderate slab climbing at The Shield.

At the top of P2 is where this route starts to get a little dirty. Mind your feet here if there are people climbing anything climber's right of you. Also, your belayer might appreciate it.

P3 (5.6, 50ft) - Follow the crack and right-facing dirty corner up and onto some 4th class terrain to an obvious pine wrapped with slings for rappelling. It looks like a lot of it is flaky and barely in there, though its almost all solid...

P2 and P3 can easily be combined with a 60m.

Rap to the ground with twin 60s or to the top of P1 with one. 50m WON'T get you there. Then rap P1 with one 60m or w/e.

Location

A major right-facing corner to the left of Drill & Repetition that leads to a blocky overhanging section. There is a bolt on the right-facing wall about 25 feet up just below the steeper section. This is the first bolt.

Protection

8 quickdraws, single rack of cams to #3.

P1 = Two bolts and opportunity for larger active gear. Two bolt anchor at top.
P2 = Five or six bolts. Two bolt anchor at top.
P3 = Only takes gear. Fat tree for anchor.

Photos

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Joven
 
Joven  
 
5.7+ is a fair grade for this climb. Fun first pitch and climbing after the second bolt eases up, making for a nice run to the anchors. From the bolts atop P2, P3 looks more difficult than it is. I would link P2&3 if I were to climb this again. Definitely not a frequented route as there is lots of small rock debris atop all the pitches, be careful not to shower your belayer. We rapped in 2 rappels with one 70m rope. However, we just barely made it the bolts on top of P1 - be sure to tie knots in the ends of the ropes. Overall a nice climb at the end of the day, we rapped with plenty of light around 9pm. Jul 12, 2016