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Routes in Far Right (Warmup Area)

Bolt Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bulge, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drill and Repetition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hoi Polloi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hook It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam or Slam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patti's Butt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V4 6B
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 835 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jesse Bryant on Jun 25, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.7, 60ft) - Run up to the first bolt, which is about 25 feet off the ground on the right-facing side of the corner just before it gets steep. As it gets steeper there is a second bolt in the steep, blocky section. As the pitch flattens out the easy crack could take a 4 or 5 cam or you can just run it out to the anchor, which is just to the right of a very obvious tree.

P2 (5.7+, 70ft) - Slab climbing above the tree and past a newer sapling that can be slung as quick protection. A smaller cam can be placed too before the first bolt, which is about 20ft above the belay ledge. Five or six draws to the top, which is on a huge dirty platform below the beginning of an obvious right-facing corner. This is some of my favorite moderate slab climbing at The Shield.

At the top of P2 is where this route starts to get a little dirty. Mind your feet here if there are people climbing anything climber's right of you. Also, your belayer might appreciate it.

P3 (5.6, 50ft) - Follow the crack and right-facing dirty corner up and onto some 4th class terrain to an obvious pine wrapped with slings for rappelling. It looks like a lot of it is flaky and barely in there, though its almost all solid...

P2 and P3 can easily be combined with a 60m.

Rap to the ground with twin 60s or to the top of P1 with one. 50m WON'T get you there. Then rap P1 with one 60m or w/e.

Location

A major right-facing corner to the left of Drill & Repetition that leads to a blocky overhanging section. There is a bolt on the right-facing wall about 25 feet up just below the steeper section. This is the first bolt.

Protection

8 quickdraws, single rack of cams to #3.

P1 = Two bolts and opportunity for larger active gear. Two bolt anchor at top.
P2 = Five or six bolts. Two bolt anchor at top.
P3 = Only takes gear. Fat tree for anchor.

Photos

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Joven
 
Joven  
 
5.7+ is a fair grade for this climb. Fun first pitch and climbing after the second bolt eases up, making for a nice run to the anchors. From the bolts atop P2, P3 looks more difficult than it is. I would link P2&3 if I were to climb this again. Definitely not a frequented route as there is lots of small rock debris atop all the pitches, be careful not to shower your belayer. We rapped in 2 rappels with one 70m rope. However, we just barely made it the bolts on top of P1 - be sure to tie knots in the ends of the ropes. Overall a nice climb at the end of the day, we rapped with plenty of light around 9pm. Jul 12, 2016
ann wawrose
Jackson, WY
ann wawrose   Jackson, WY
Really fun route but some things to be aware of...
1. There are large loose rocks still on the upper pitches of this climb. Helmet and careful footing strongly advised.
2. We were not able to rap from P3 to P1 on a 70 m rope. We were able to go P3 > P2 > Ground.
3. That big tree they mention doesn't seem to be there anymore, but the anchors are obvious once you get over the bulge and the piney sapling is still there :) Aug 2, 2018

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