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Routes in Far Right (Warmup Area)

Bolt Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drill and Repetition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hoi Polloi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hook It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam or Slam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patti's Butt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V4 6B
Type: Sport
FA: Greg Miles
Page Views: 1,432 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Dec 27, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Apparently this route has gotten easier with time, as a current guidebook lists it as 5.7. I'll stick with the original guidebook(s) grade of 5.9.
Fun, easy face climbing leads to a large roof which is pulled on titanic jugs. Easier climbing leads to the top. Great moves over the roof!
There is a variation that starts just left of this route and is exponentially harder. I've only done it once, and pulled on a draw to get over the roof.

Location

Just left of Jam or Slam. Look for the large roof (and, usually, a large group of folks at the base).

Protection

Bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jesse Bryant
Jackson, Wyoming
 
Jesse Bryant   Jackson, Wyoming
 
Slabby start, awesome "titanic jug" roof pull, more slabbiness, steeper section to the top. I honestly love this route...its my favorite warmup/moderate at The Shield. Jun 11, 2015
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Well protected roof. Fun but short. Aug 1, 2009
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Good but the moves can be greasy!

TDA Oct 26, 2008