Elevation: 6,694 ft
GPS: 43.288, -110.537 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,643 total · 353/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Dec 23, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

The Hoback Shield ("The Shield") is a slabby escarpment of nice limestone with a good selection of route different than any found elsewhere in the valley. If you enjoy calf pumps, pinches, dimples, and a few good roof pulls, check this place out!

Best in spring and fall. Summer is OK until the sun hits it at about 11 AM. The cliff is directly south facing. A good combo day can be made by hitting the Shield in the morning and Rodeo Wall in the afternoon.

Most of the routes were developed by Joe Sottile (AKA Maxwell Yanoff), Greg Miles, and a few others in the early 90s. Miles returned in the early 2000s to retrobolt a few of the sportier classics, thus making them extremely popular. Also in the early 00s, Trevor Bowman added a nice selection of moderate sport routes. Despite the rebolting efforts, routes here are still considered sporty by some. Bring your slab head!

There are a handful of trad routes here which should prove exciting for anyone interesting in polished limestone cracks. Also, many of the sport routes have second pitches that go to the top of the cliff and are protected by trad gear. Please be careful if you decide to top out. Much loose rock exists up there.

Getting There

(NOTE: these were amended 6/2015 after being inaccurate for many years)

The Shield sits above the Hoback River. If you're driving from Jackson, make a left at Hoback Junction onto Highway 189/191 into Hoback Canyon, paralleling the Hoback River. Drive approx. 11 mi, crossing the river 4 times. Shortly after crossing the Hoback River the 4th time, park in a large pullout which will appear on the right (south) side of the road. The south-facing cliff is visible and sits above you across the road.

Cross the road and encounter a nice trail, which switchbacks up to the base of the cliff. Allow about 10 minutes.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hoback Shield

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Patti's Butt
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
The Bulge
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Electric Arch (Mulvado Edge)
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Jam or Slam
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Hook It
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Drill and Repetition
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
The Hunter
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Frida's Bone
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
A Thousand Cranes
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
La Bamba
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Naughty Guides
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
The Joker
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Petzl Logic
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
McFlatus Roof
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Hot Blubber
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Patti's Butt 4. Far Right (Warmup…
 16
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Bulge 4. Far Right (Warmup…
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Electric Arch (Mulvado Edge) 2. Hoback Shield Right
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jam or Slam 4. Far Right (Warmup…
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hook It 4. Far Right (Warmup…
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Drill and Repetition 4. Far Right (Warmup…
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Hunter 3. McFlatus Roof Area
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Frida's Bone 3. McFlatus Roof Area
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
A Thousand Cranes 1. Hoback Shield Left
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
La Bamba 3. McFlatus Roof Area
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Naughty Guides 3. McFlatus Roof Area
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Joker 1. Hoback Shield Left
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Petzl Logic 1. Hoback Shield Left
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
McFlatus Roof 3. McFlatus Roof Area
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hot Blubber 4. Far Right (Warmup…
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hoback Shield »

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