Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2150 ft (652 m)|
|FA:||ACB Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Matt Dobbs, NP|
|Page Views:||2,613 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jun 25, 2015|
This was first documented by as a solo climb so pitches arent delineated into rope lengths, but many parties might prefer to simul-climb, belay the few short sections of difficulty, or even to pitch out the climbing.
Footwall (5.2) PG:
Face climb up the center of the footwall staying right of the obvious buttress on the left side. Divots, pockets, flakes, cracks and edges offer a variety of options and good gear.
The midsection is nearly 400 feet wide and offers expansive views. Scramble up and slightly right up the center on unprotected slab for about 275 feet toward a 5 foot bulge/overlap with some lichen. The rock is a little dirtier for a short distance; continue to a 5 foot vertical overlap that ends the scrambling.
Mid slide ledges and cliffs to top PG:
In general, the route takes the best line that avoids vegetation.
Climb the overlap 5.4 (there are good cracks for natural belays above and below this section) and head left up 4th class/easy 5th class ledges with plentiful holds and edges. Traverse right toward the right side of the slide under a large tree island below a 25 foot cliff that spans the slide. The tree island begins at the cliff and extends downward. Climb up to a 3 foot y bushy overlap near the right side of the slide. Climb the cliff via a left rising ramp with several cracks to a 4 foot wide ledge. Walk left to an obvious fracture cave with a hanging chockstone. Climb through cave then up and left to a terrace with perhaps the best view of the slide below.
Walk up through a narrow band of shrubs and scramble up and right to an overhanging 15 foot cliff. Follow left along the cliff to an obvious wide crack at the top. A bouldery 5.7 move leads to the crack (formed when a piece of the slab slid slightly forward). Climb crack to low angle face. Belay from the top if necessary. This move can be avoided be heading to the trees/vegetation on the right.
Scramble up the remainder of the slide to top.
Bushwhack 250 feet left to a narrow unappealing slide that leads directly to the balanced rock on the summit ridge. Follow trail left to Lake Arnold and back to Loj/South Meadows.