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Routes in Lower Cathedral Rock

76 Degrees in the Shade T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beggar's Buttress T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bridalveil Falls East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack immediately right of Unnamed But Beautiful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of The Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Geek For A Week S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Giblit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groom's Variation, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Gunsight T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
King and I S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King for a Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kung Fu Panda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mac Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meccaphobia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mechanical Advantage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Myth of Sessyphus, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overhang Overpass T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pilgrimage (New North Face) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right from "76 Degrees in the Shade" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrubby Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectacle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sub-Mission T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Many Darts (Free Ascent) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed N3 with chimney start T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed but Beautiful T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 430 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Gerberding and Al Swanson (1997 - 1998)
Page Views: 250 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 4, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A mixed sport and trad climb towards the left end of Mecca. This will be the first climb you encounter after walking downhill to the left of Scrubby Corner and Meccaphobia. Look for bolts up a black waterstreak. Aside from the final 60ft of p3, the rock is solid and the climbing is good quality. Like the rest of the climbs at Mecca, this route gets afternoon shade in summer and all-day shade when the days are shorter.

Pitch 1 (11b) Climb the bolts up the waterstreak, trending left after about 50ft. The bolts end at the base of a shallow corner. Climb the corner past a couple more tricky sections, and then traverse left past one more bolt to the anchor. A long and full-value pitch.

Pitch 2 (11b) Traverse left from the anchor and follow bolts up. At the second bolt is a difficult traverse right, and then at the final bolt is a huge reach (or small jump) to a crimp dish.

Pitch 3 (10c) Immediately traverse right into the dirty crack then climb straight up to a ledge system. Angle up and left across ledges to a stem box with a big hanging flake which forms a roof. Handjam out the left side of the roof and then climb up a short chimney with loose stacked flakes. This bring you to another bolted anchor at the top of a tower called "The Crow's Nest".

The New North Face (V, 5.11 A3+) continues from here to the top of Lower Cathedral. See the Sloan/Putnam "Yosemite Bigwalls" book for a topo.

Descend Pilgrimage by rapping the route with two 60m ropes.

Protection

Pro to 2", primarily finger size stuff. About 10 quickdraws and a few shoulder-length runners.

Photos

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