Type: Trad, 430 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Gerberding and Al Swanson (1997 - 1998)
Page Views: 399 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 4, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A mixed sport and trad climb towards the left end of Mecca. This will be the first climb you encounter after walking downhill to the left of Scrubby Corner and Meccaphobia. Look for bolts up a black waterstreak. Aside from the final 60ft of p3, the rock is solid and the climbing is good quality. Like the rest of the climbs at Mecca, this route gets afternoon shade in summer and all-day shade when the days are shorter.

Pitch 1 (11b) Climb the bolts up the waterstreak, trending left after about 50ft. The bolts end at the base of a shallow corner. Climb the corner past a couple more tricky sections, and then traverse left past one more bolt to the anchor. A long and full-value pitch.

Pitch 2 (11b) Traverse left from the anchor and follow bolts up. At the second bolt is a difficult traverse right, and then at the final bolt is a huge reach (or small jump) to a crimp dish.

Pitch 3 (10c) Immediately traverse right into the dirty crack then climb straight up to a ledge system. Angle up and left across ledges to a stem box with a big hanging flake which forms a roof. Handjam out the left side of the roof and then climb up a short chimney with loose stacked flakes. This bring you to another bolted anchor at the top of a tower called "The Crow's Nest".

The New North Face (V, 5.11 A3+) continues from here to the top of Lower Cathedral. See the Sloan/Putnam "Yosemite Bigwalls" book for a topo.

Descend Pilgrimage by rapping the route with two 60m ropes.

Protection

Pro to 2", primarily finger size stuff. About 10 quickdraws and a few shoulder-length runners.

Photos

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