Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Scott Burke
Page Views: 307 total · 20/month
Shared By: j wharton on Apr 9, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This seemingly neglected line is a quality 5 pitch sport route on the left side of Mecca. The climbing a bit gritty in the middle, but the first and last pitches are great. I suspect with traffic it would clean up, and become truly excellent. It gets you off the ground, and is perpetually shaded, so with a quick approach, it's good plan B, when you cannot face more sunny slab paddling, or widget wrangling.

It ends somewhat abruptly in a short headwall. It might be worth exploring options to push the route further up the wall. Extending the crux might make for a very hard pitch, or working out right from atop P4 might be an easier option.

P1: 12c Two distinct, technical cruxes. The second can be wet in the spring.
P2: 11A Short pitch up to a belay on top of a small tree.
P3: 11B Up a gritty corner, and through some fun, juggy climbing on the left side of the long roof.
P4: 12A/B Short pitch up and right, with a tricky long move, and short technical corner.
(Linking P3 and P4 would avid the route's least comfortable belay.)
P5: 13C Another shorty. Cool technical climbing up a corner leads to some excellent rock, and pumpy lock-offs. Lower back to the belay.

Rap easily with a 70 meter.

Location

There are lots of bolted face routes in this area, so finding the start can be a bit confusing. Look for a long horizontal roof at approximately 200'. The route climbs up to and out the left side of this. The Yosemite Valley Free Climbs guidebook's topo clarifies this area nicely.

Protection

All bolts. 14 draws is plenty.

Photos

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