Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Beardsley Boulders
|Anarchy Crack T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Asscrack, The V0 4|
|Assorted Goods V0-1 4+|
|Beer Belly V0+ 4+|
|Brown Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Classic Orange V0 4|
|Double Clutch V3 6A|
|Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fingertip Mantle V4-5 6B+|
|Flake, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Frosted Flakes V1 5|
|Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hamstring V1+ 5|
|Hot Sweaty Buns S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Mantle Puss V1 5|
|Monkey Lust V3 6A|
|Monkey Lust Right V0-1 4+|
|Mr. Mantle V1-2 5|
|Naked Bimbos from Mars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pencil Thin V6-7 7A+|
|Pencil Thin Flake V5 6C|
|Pencil Thin, Right Arete V4 6B|
|Perforator right V2 5+|
|Prow, The V3 6A|
|Sharpie V2 5+|
|Short N' Easy V0- 4-|
|Spank Your Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Unnamed V3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A|
|Virgin, The V0 4|
|Whales Back V0 4|
|Wiley Left V0 4|
|Wiley Right V0- 4-|
|Wolf Jr. V1-2 5|
|gripper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Type:||Boulder, 9 ft|
|Page Views:||238 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Zek on May 17, 2015|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
- There was some chalk on one of the start holds. I didn't find the route on MP, but I believe it's established starting in the mid-crack area.
Start on two sidepulls: the left is good, right is sharp and shallow.
The feet are awkward for the first move, smear left and jam right foot against a large crack towards the right. Work your way up the crack using two main crimps which you can make your own creative ways to get to.
There's a decent hold around the left corner, which will help you get to the pinch block on top of the boulder, which aids with top out.
The start + first couple of moves are in the V2-V3 range, while the rest of the route is around a V1.
LocationI haven't seen any routes on this site that use the boulder, though guides might have it. I have attached a gps location. Look for a rock with a horn on top.
Same location as Short N' Easy and Beer Belly.