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Routes in Upper Broadway

Alcoa Presents T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Grace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changling, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conn's East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conn's East Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dinah Moe-Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Old Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Discontent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Expletive Deleted T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosted Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Finale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Assets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Test T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hopeful Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Galahad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Octane T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nip and Tuck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orangeaid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pancho and Lefty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pickleright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pollux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put A Wiggle In Your Stride S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spock's Brain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talbert Picklefish T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terminal Velocity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Time Flies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Vision, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Windy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Conrad, Mike Schmitt 1974
Page Views: 167 total, 5/month
Shared By: cmj Jenkins on May 7, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

This route traverses the South Peak East Face to the top of the Soler Flake. It has serious run outs and is infrequently done, so expect to be brushing off lichen to find your holds (some of which may break...). This description differs from that in Tony Barnes' book, but the line was logical and ended at the same place. Please contact me if you can help reconcile the differences.

Protection is infrequent but (mostly) solid, but falls shouldn't be dangerous until you get to the last 30 ft of the route (follower would hit the Soler Flake full force in a fall... bolt could probably protect that).

P1. Start at a tree near the end of the second pitch of Old Ladies. Traverse right and slightly up, passing under the right facing corner in the second pitch of Dirty Old Man. End at the left facing corner a short ways into the second pitch of Frosted Flake. (~100ft)

P2. Traverse right around the corner onto the lichen-covered face. Pass the shuts on T. R. Rap and Tap to a thin vertical crack. Follow this straight up to a set of shuts (end here to skip the dangerous traverse). Continue right and very slightly up to head directly for the top of Soler Flake. (~115ft)

I'd probably give this route two stars if it weren't for the final traverse. End at the last set of shuts for a bit of 5.7 adventure.

Location

First pitch has plenty of landmarks in the above description.

For P2 -- If you look at a picture of the east face, you notice two massive, nearly horizontal, right-leaning seams down and left of the summit. You pass under the left-most, and through the left end of the right seam.

Protection

Standard rack. Add small tri cams.

Photos

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