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Routes in Eagle Rock

New Black, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Obscurist , The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sulphur T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sun Tzu T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chad Suchoski, Brandon Lawson (2011)
Page Views: 186 total, 6/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 3, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is one of the easiest and best protected routes on the face that goes all the way to the top.

Begin in an obvious vertical left facing corner with perfect fingers and hands. Traverse out right to avoid dirt and a bush near the top on good holds to a ledge and a two bolt anchor.

Pitch two climbs splitter cracks on a low angle face up and right to a corner where you'll step out right onto an exposed face and mantle up onto a narrow ledge. Follow this exposed ledge system (kinda cool) as it pinches down toward the end where a thin slab will guard your exit. A short section of thin nubbins (5.10c) puts you back on a ledge where a two bolt anchor waits.

Pitch 3 traverses out right on Tuolumne style crystals past a few bolts, then heads strait up into less vertical terrain. There are many places to build an anchor but a 60m rope will barely make it to the trees on top.

Location

The start of this one is fairly obvious as it begins in a very prominent left facing dihedral.
You can rappel the route from the first pitch with a 60m rope. You may be able to rappel from the second pitch to the ground with a 60m rope as well due to the traversing nature of the route. I doubt it will make it all the way down, but you may be able to downclimb as the angle below is not too steep.

Protection

Cams, .5"-3"
Nuts, 1 set.

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