Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eagle Rock

New Black, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Obscurist , The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Sulphur T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sun Tzu T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 375 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chad Suchoski, Mike Cane (2007)
Page Views: 238 total · 7/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 2, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route takes more or less a strait shot through the center of the main face of Eagle Rock and requires some very thin face climbing skills.

Look for the marker piton at it's base. Begin by climbing the dirty right facing corner until you can make a short traverse right into a low angle arching crack. Place little gear here as it will produce rope drag as you climb higher.
Climb up to a nice short ledge with a bolt. Hand traverse right before climbing back left up a ramp. Several bolts and some gear will bring you to a two bolt anchor out left under a big roof. Be mindful of rope drag, it's a long pitch.

Pitch two climbs a dirty awkward section through the roof then traverses right to a paper thin flake. Thin face moves through the crux lead to a mantle on a big knob, then knob climbing through the headwall to a two bolt anchor on a big ledge.

Pitch three climbs up and left to a big rock scar following a thin crack on the face. Eventually the crack arches out right and up past a few thin knobs on golden granite to the summit block. Traverse left under the block to the bolted anchor.

Location

Almost dead center of the wall. Requires some scrambling to reach the base.

Protection

Cams, .3"-3"
Nuts, 1 set.

Photos

0 Comments