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Routes in Double Cone East Face

DB Eh? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Dave Mcleod, Mark Woodward
Page Views: 388 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sean Maher on Apr 7, 2015
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Description

Classic route which goes up the prominent buttress. Start at the toe of the buttress and climb the sometimes wet slab to a vegetated gully and ledge with a DBA. Climb the easy slab above with ample pro and belay beneath an overlap. Continue up the slab and belay beneath the first steep section (the majority of the climb is at such a low angle I couldn't tell if this was overhanging or not!) Surmount the steep section, climb another slab, go through a short 5.8 steep section, and belay at a ledge above this. Head for the obvious corner/chute with some fun bridging and belay at the large ledge. From here you can easy continue to the summit of Double Cone in 3 pitches of easy 5th class or rappel down on bolt anchors.

Location

Starting at the toe of the East buttress of Double Cone and finishing at a large ledge halfway up. If you summit Double Cone you can link up the Grand Traverse to summit both peaks and the summit of Single Cone. If rappelling from the ledge, use the DBA for a 50 m rappel (need two ropes) to a ledge above Lake Alta Slabs. Scramble down to the top of the slabs and find a cairn to the true right of a waterfall which marks the spot of a DBA. 2 rappels to the ground from here (second DBA is at a ledge beside the waterfall, not on the steep section)

Protection

all trad except for a DBA on the first pitch and rappel rings to get down.

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