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Routes in Window Rock - East

Crunk Cowgirl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Destroy all Planets T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Drunken Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Expect No Mercy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Failure to Launch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indian Summer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Juniper Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Masochist Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Step Beyond TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pure Pleasure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 354 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mike Marmar on Mar 25, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Raptor Nesting Details

Description

Start on the slab just left of the start to Good Times and Pure Pleasure. Climb up to a very thin pinched crack, and continue up as it widens.

Protection

The pro is poor to non-existent for the first 30ft or so. A single rack with some small nuts and micro cams is sufficient. Finger to hand size pieces for the belay.

Photos

zoso
  5.8 R
zoso  
  5.8 R
Or better yet, you can lead it thinking it's Good Times since you can't read a guide book. If you do this expect no pro until ~30 feet up and then a bomber #1 camalot AFTER the 5.8 crux which is a high step smear from crimpers. Der.

Also I found humor in your opinion that City routes are sandbagged. I've always thought the opposite. Apr 24, 2015
Ryan Hamilton   Orem
First the R rating is legit. There are zero options for protection for the first 30 ft. Complete blank slab. Full disclosure: I climbed this on top rope and was not able to finish this climb. The 5.8 rating slab rating is probably a little sandbagged like most City routes. That said, after I lowered down from my 7th try I watched Kim Miller walk up this route like it was a nothing at all. I don't think he even had to think about it. He even borrowed my shoes to climb and tied in with a bow-line around the waist (no harness) to climb it. Apr 24, 2015