Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Window Rock - East

Crunk Cowgirl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Destroy all Planets T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Drunken Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Expect No Mercy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Failure to Launch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indian Summer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Juniper Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Masochist Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Step Beyond TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pure Pleasure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Gene Smith, circa 1986
Page Views: 2,318 total, 15/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 23, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


50 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Raptor Nesting Details

Description

In the center of the east face on Window Rock is a fist crack that comes down into a large alcove. This is Expect No Mercy. Climb the steep face past a couple of bolts to the crack. Pull through this pumpy fist crack roof and jam to the two-bolt anchor.

Protection

Two (or three?) draws, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot (optional), #2 Camalot, a couple of long slings for the larger cams.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Would be classic if longer. What is this pocket/flake business? Red River Gorge in Granite? Jun 16, 2016
First ascent by New York climber Gene Smith around 86', not Lowe. Sep 22, 2013
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
A #3, 2, and 1 is perfect advise.
Although you don't need the crack, I was glad to get a jam. But I'd recommend a little tape on the right hand... My skin got no mercy. Oct 20, 2012
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
This route looks intimidating but if you don't have the cams, I wouldn't worry about bringing them; this is a sport climb. The 2 bolts only protect the first 20 feet of climb, but that's all you need to pull all the moves up the face and over the roof. It is very well protected. The wall is steep and the holds are large and very very sharp. After climbing other routes on this face, I doubt the slab above the roof is even 5.6. Jun 15, 2012
JF1
Las Vegas
5.10b
JF1   Las Vegas
5.10b
Super fun, can be stitched up with a #3, 2, 1 New style camalot. Great crimps and jugs. 2 bolts to begin. Fist jam heel hook, who knew? Loved the heel hook in big shoes, swimmy. May 22, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
A cam or two, an attentive belay, and a bit of your supreme flexibility should work just fine...

Doesn't the City have a rep as being over graded? Aug 20, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b/c
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b/c
I did the crack straight on and thought it was jingus™™. Had a heel hook and mucho wiggling to get over the "roof" while pulling on cupped hands and fists. 10b? Ok.... for 5.12 leaders. I was told that if I pitched I might have decked too.... kickAssss™ Upper crack is trivial. Aug 20, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Dude(-ette)! You're givin' away key onsite beta here. For shame! I won me a steak dinner betting a partner he couldn't onsite that thing (and remained silent when he Z clipped the bolts, hee hee, pure evil).

The old anchor to this route used to be a sling stickin' out of the crack attached to something. That something, when dug out, turned out to be an old Dolt nut. Pretty cool! Aug 20, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Nice route and honestly the only one we did on the eastside. Summer days included wasps in the crack making upward progress tentative. Bouldery start with positive holds. Pulling the roof head-on was a bit of a problem (hung - dang!). If you don't have the juice to pull through using the hand crack look for positive holds to the left making it much easier. The handcrack above is fun but easy. 2 bolts, gear to 3 1/2", chain anchors. Aug 14, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b
We felt it was easier to go right of the crack, using the finger rail. Then, jam a left hand jam and pop it. Good short route, but a rope eater. Sep 11, 2006