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Routes in Hudson Mountain

Bucket Brigade S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cant Get Right S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clowning of the Chode T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clowning, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deer Camp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deshi Basara S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diesler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
EMP S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fogell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Goldline S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Homie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hudson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hudson Hangover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
James Family All-Stars, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Locomotive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Second After Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PMA S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Remedy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spanky Goes To Hollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stand and Deliver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supertang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 515 total, 15/month
Shared By: Spencer Scott on Mar 23, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Always changing features on this route make for tons of variety. Technical beginning flake, fun jug haul mid section and slopers and a mini roof finish. Combined with the length of the route, it makes for a very fun warm up. However, only 2 stars because it can be rather condition dependent.

Caution: The haul from the fixed draw to the anchors is extremely dirty. You won't be able to see your top anchors from the last and only fixed draw until you begin to round out the roof. After rain, it was covered in moss and mud, making the final moves really sketchy. Likewise, the fixed draws are hanging directly on bolts without chain extensions and are prone to increased rope drag and a stuck rope when TRing.

Location

Left most climb at the crag. Starts on a nice orange face with an obvious flake.

Protection

7 bolts, 1 fixed draw and 2 fixed anchors with biners.

Photos

Chase Webb
Little Rock, AR
 
Chase Webb   Little Rock, AR
 
Yesterday 9/30/2017 I tightened the hanger back to the bolt. Oct 1, 2017
WARNING!

The bolt hanger below the fixed draw somehow fell off or was removed. This is in the middle of the overhanging crux of the route. If you climb past this to the fixed draw and fall while clipping, you will almost certainly fall all the way to the ledge below with serious consequences. I will go back next week and replace the hanger and will post here once it is done. Sep 22, 2017
Michael A Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.9+
Michael A Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.9+
I recommend longer draws at the anchor to prevent rope drag. The last person off should rappel from the perma biners to save their rope. Mar 20, 2017
because the anchors are so far back its best to repel down. the rope drag is real. Nov 16, 2015
Andrew Roepke
Kansas City, Missouri
 
Andrew Roepke   Kansas City, Missouri
 
Really good if you can catch it dry! Mar 29, 2015