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Routes in South-Facing Wall

Ansatz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aura S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Basenji, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Enlightenment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Helga the Berner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hinterlander S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illuminator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Illustrious One, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lords of the Night S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Norma Brow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peach, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Phosphorescence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radiance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shield, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Flare S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday in the Park S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundowner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Taken S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unemployment Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up and At 'Em S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wake n' Bake S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wakey, Wakey, Eggs and Bakey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 738 total · 19/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 2, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A long, very enjoyable route with a number of challenging moves, capped with a thin, flummoxing section right before the chains.

Head up the through the first four bolts and branch left. A few steeper bits interspersed with occasional mini-ledges for feet keep your heart going. A bit past halfway a slightly less steep section briefly intervenes.

The line then gets gradually thinner until right near the top you're left wondering how you're going to possibly finish this thing before the pump overtakes you and you peel.

Location

The first line of bolts to the right of the large ledge that is approached via any of several easier routes (and one stiff .11a). The Illustrious One branches left after the fourth bolt.

Shares first 4 bolts with Phosphoresence.

Protection

Seventeen bolts and anchors. (verify)

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11c
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11c
17 bolts is correct. Pretty cruiser for the first 2/3 with solid rests to keep the pump at bay. The top is cryptic and sequential with a couple of dead-end sequences that can be disheartening if you go for the OS and get lost in no-hold land. Even if you nail the sequence the last 3 clips are relentless. Best route I've tried up there. Jan 2, 2018

More About The Illustrious One

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