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Routes in South-Facing Wall

Ansatz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aura S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Basenji, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Enlightenment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Helga the Berner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hinterlander S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illuminator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Illustrious One, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lords of the Night S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Norma Brow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peach, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Phosphorescence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radiance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shield, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Flare S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday in the Park S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundowner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Taken S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unemployment Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up and At 'Em S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wake n' Bake S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wakey, Wakey, Eggs and Bakey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Kory Kowallis
Page Views: 236 total · 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 27, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A fun corner problem with jugs, stemming, and a couple of thinking cap moves.

From the ground the route actually doesn't look like much, but it's definitely worth climbing.

Location

In the right-facing corner at the far right of the south-facing wall. One must climb up towards the west-facing wall and then back to the corner.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors.

Photos

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Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10b
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10b
The FA rated this 5.10b and it probably is if you stay close to the bolt line.

However, what feels to me like a more natural line stays somewhat more in the corner to the left of the bolt line and if you climb it that way it's probably more like 5.9. Nov 27, 2016
Woogie
  5.10b
Woogie  
  5.10b
The F.A. was by the great one, Mr. Kory Kowallis. I'm bummed he beat me to this line to be honest. Nov 29, 2016
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Getting out of the corner and following the bolt line for the last 2 clips is certainly harder than sticking with the stem. It also forces you to step down on the pillar to the right and use the arete. Staying on the face proper would be way harder than 10b and you could take a long ride botching the last clip. Interesting looking line but poorly engineered, you either deal with rat piss or sketchy climbing. Dec 3, 2017
Melissa TM  
 
The ample shade provided on this climb was the deciding factor to climb it. It was ok, but I probably wouldn’t do it again. There was a lot of choss and loose boulders, along with various small animal feces. I stayed left and it felt easier than 10b Aug 3, 2018
grk10vq    
if you liked the hinterlands, i hear the fin in lcc is excellent this time of year. Aug 4, 2018

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