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Routes in South-Facing Wall

Ansatz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aura S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Basenji, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Enlightenment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Helga the Berner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hinterlander S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illuminator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Illustrious One, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lords of the Night S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Norma Brow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peach, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Phosphorescence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radiance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise and Shine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shield, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Flare S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday in the Park S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundowner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Taken S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unemployment Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up and At 'Em S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wake n' Bake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wakey, Wakey, Eggs and Bakey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 318 total · 9/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 1, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A challenging line in three distinct sections. Start up on less-than-vertical limestone which gets steeper and thinner as you go. An initial crux consists of figuring out how to use what thin, tiny bits there are.

After surmounting the first thin bit (and heading left after the fifth bolt), a rest awaits as you contemplate a steepening section through the obvious roof.

After the roof use your resting skills to turn down the pump, and then head up another thin, slabby section until you really start to wonder who stole all the holds.

Location

Starts below an obvious, dark roof and right-facing bulge. The first five bolts are shared with Unemployment Line, a .12a that branches right.

Protection

13 bolts, anchors with fixed biners.

Photos

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Not sure the holds are manufactured as much as heavily reinforced with glue? One third dirty slab, one third dirty steepness, and one third on very good rock with thought provoking moves. 1 day ago
Scotty J
  5.12a
Scotty J  
  5.12a
Thin, sharp, and balancy at the bottom and top. Interesting sequence through the steeper middle section on manufactured holds. Mar 15, 2015