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Routes in The Mileski Wall

Chutes and Ladders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gilberto and His Donkey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Incredible Hand Crack of the Potrero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Mono de Dios S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Little Elvis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother Superior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Big S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peregrinos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Permanent Vacation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pope On A Rope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain of Gold S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rest Day Alla Pagoda S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Roman Holiday S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Shakti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weeping Jesus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 1300 ft, 14 pitches
FA: Dan Flynn, Daniel Trujillo 2015-2018. P2 FFA Damaris Jaramillo, Nicolas Navarrete
Page Views: 316 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Jan 18, 2015
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

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Description [Suggest Change]

Steep crack climbing and technical face climbing mulitpitch, following a natural line on the left side of the Mileski wall. This and Devotion are the only routes that goes to the top of this wall.

70m rope mandatory. Can link 3+4, and 13+14.

Please try it, and leave feedback here! This is a new route, and use a trad mentality to test holds, have awareness of loose rock especially at the top, and be careful for those below. Have fun.

P1 5.11
Start on the ledge left of Permanent Vacation. Work left through lower-angle grey face to reach an obvious crack. Steep locks and stemming to the top. 32m, 9 bolts.

P2 5.12/+
Continue the pumpy crack for 5m to a rest, then 20m of continuous techy face climbing on excellent edges and pockets. 27m, 12 bolts.

P3 5.11
Another crack starts, with some pumpy moves until it eases up for fun stuff to the belay. 34m, 13 bolts.

P4 5.7
Easy climbing over a bulge, then walk up low-angle slab. 35m, 5 bolts.

P5 5.10
Up from the ledge, works back right. 33m, 11 bolts

P6 5.11+
Multiple cruxes on great rock. Lots of balance moves, with three rest stances. 35m, 14 bolts

P7 5.11
Good crimping again, crux off the belay. 25m, 9 bolts.

P8 5.10+
Some long reaches with huecos and crimps. Goes through very pocketed volcanic-looking overhang feature. 30m, 14 bolts.

P9 5.10
Easy blocky start, then mantle a bulge. Finish with some delicate moves to belay. 30m, 11 bolts.

P10 5.10+
Fun face climb start off belay, then jugs to dihedral and a crimpy finish. One of our favorite pitches! 35m, 15 bolts.

P11 5.10
Balancy start, fun moves though deep pockets at overhang, trends to left. 30m, 13 bolts.

P12 5.10+
Not too difficult for first half, then some face climbing moves. 32m, 12 bolts.

P13 5.11
Fully engaging moves in a corner near the top, some loose rock to the left, pay attention. 35m, 14 bolts.

P14 5.10
To the top! Closely bolted in some sandy rock. The anchors go to a face just below the ridge. Can top out to the ridge with caution, whole top has loose rocks. 20m, 7 bolts.

Location [Suggest Change]

Left-most climb on the Mileski wall.

A plaque marks the climb, which is dedicated to Janosch Sedl.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts. Bring ~ 15 draws

70m rope required to get down! There are no intermediate rap stations for 60m ropes.

Photos

This route is super thoughtful and slow. Don't think you'll be flying up this guy quickly. The 12c pitch is definitely 12c. Pitch 8 & 9 aren't good and climb up loose rock, sometimes though vegetation and cactus. Watch out for loose rock high up on pitch 13 on the left after the corner, and the last pitch sucks ass. Other than that, all the climbing is awesome. Although its slow, the climbing is extremely unique on solid rock, and very well bolted. Start early and be prepared for a very long day. All the belays are hanging belays. Feb 17, 2018

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