Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bill Forrest, Gary Garbert|
|Page Views:||256 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||sean peters on Jan 14, 2015|
|Admins:||Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland|
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Locate chimney system on the west side of formation and climb the loose, rotten chimney to a strange belay in a neat alcove and chockstone. We found two old pitons at this stance (1965). The crux of the climb is moving out of the alcove and pulling above onto some loose stone above. If you have climbed other routes rated similar (5.8) in the Superstitions this one might not compare (i.e. feel a bit more difficult due to the nature of the rock). Anyone wanting to feel dirty (chimney), scared (pitch 2), and happy (after you are safely down) needs to climb in this area.
Route begins on west side of Sisyphus off a small ledge in a cool saddle with a large wedged boulder above. You can not see the start of the route until you are standing directly in front of the chimney (pitch 1).
We used medium to large cams for the chimney, this pitch is probably 5.6. Medium cams to protect the moves to begin pitch 2 and not much for the remainder of this pitch. Pretty easy but very loose to the summit. The only fixed gear were the two pins at the end of the chimney pitch. Two ropes are required to get down. We found zero anchors, gear for the rappel (2013). Rap off rock/bolt towards south.