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Early Access
Routes in West Crag
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Barn Door Ballet T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Beauty and the Beast T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bi-level Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Burly Girly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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End of Autumn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fancy Free T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Footloose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grace and Power T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pinch Me T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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School Bus Trundle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twixt the Trees T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.43456, -105.38939 |
| FA: | K. Duncan, D. Humphrey, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,218 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Oct 27, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This nice route is located on the far left side of the crag. It ascends two large dihedrals with a huge ledge between them.
P1. 5.7. Go up the first dihedral to the large ledge.
P2. 5.7. Climb up the second dihedral, past a tricky crux, then angle left around the roof and up to a belay.
P3. 5.easy. Continue diagonaling up and right, past a large down tree, to anchors at the top of the cliff.
Descent: two 30 meter rappels. After pitch two, you can traverse right to the End of Autumn anchors and make a single rappel to the ground with a 60 meter rope.
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