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Routes in West Crag

Barn Door Ballet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beauty and the Beast T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bi-level Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burly Girly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
End of Autumn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fancy Free T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Footloose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace and Power T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pinch Me T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
School Bus Trundle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twixt the Trees T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: K Duncan, D Humphrey, 2014
Page Views: 273 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Nov 8, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A good route with some hard pulls at the bottom followed by a nice slab. The second roof has a tough mantle then chickenheads to the top. A little loose rock at the start but bullet-proof after that.

P1. 5.11a. Clip the first bolt with a long sling, then power through the height dependent crux overhang. Continue up the slab to the second overhang, clip another bolt, grab a jug and mantle onto the slab above. Chickenheads lead to the chains.

Variarions:

1) 5.5. After the crux overhang, follow the crack in the right-facing dihedral then step left onto the lip of the overhang and up to the anchors.
2) 5.8. After the crux overhang, the nice slab right of the dihedral has been toproped.

Location

See the topo and photo.

Protection

Ten bolts and some long slings.

Use small to medium cams and nuts for the dihedral variation.

Photos

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