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Routes in (2) Land of Shadows

Bulge Boogie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerberus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Pockets S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
It's All Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Signs Preceding the End of the World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad Dad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Reed Fee
Page Views: 321 total · 7/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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14 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

Worthy route in the Land of Shadows. Like its namesake guarding the gates of Hell, this route has three heads. If you like mixed do the 5.9 trad start on the left, middle variation is 5.9 sport, the right is mixed and can take a bite out of you at 5.10a. All the routes meet about midway with bolts, not to be taken lightly all the way to the shared anchor.

Location [Edit]

currently the third bolted route to the right of where the trail meets the cliff. Look for two separate bolt lines heading up and meeting about 50' up.

Protection [Edit]

10 bolts?

Photos

Reed Fee
White Salmon WA
Reed Fee   White Salmon WA
Cerberus is a mythological gaurdian of the underworld taking the form of a vicious three headed dog.
The trad start(as Dave mentioned) was the original start and inspiration for this climb, that and it's the cleanest face in the land of shadows. Rick Harrel was the one who installed the anchors two or three years before I bolted the route. He lost interest in becoming a developer of sport climbs. I wanted something in the shade for hot days. Oct 21, 2014
cconradd
Washougal, WA
cconradd   Washougal, WA
I thought the crux through the last 2 or 3 bolts was harder than 5.9 if climbing on the face only.

Is it intended to step around the corner to the right to use some of the holds in the crack system? Looks like they were clean, but I wasn't sure if this was how the route was intended to be climbed or if I had stepped onto another route.

Great climb regardless. May 31, 2015
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.9
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.9
cconradd, I've seen folk go both ways. I thought it was about the same either way. Jun 26, 2015
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.9
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.9
The bolt on the right anchor hanger is loose. We've tried to tighten it a few times and it keeps coming loose. Beware until we figure out how to fix. Jun 26, 2015
adavis
Vancouver, WA
adavis   Vancouver, WA
The bolt on the left anchor is also loose. Hand tightened both left and right bolts on anchors, but I'm sure they will loosen up again. Be cautious. May 1, 2016
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.9
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.9
Both bolts have been tightened with locktight. Should be good for a couple of week or so. [;} May 30, 2016
Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
Took the right hand sport start, didn't feel any harder than then finish. May 23, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9
I had trouble finding the mixed line on this route. I thought you started with bolts, and then progressed to mixed, but that just dropped me into the 5.9 bolted line that merged at the middle. Doh.

I found the 10a line to be more fun than the 9. Aug 14, 2017

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