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Routes in (2) Land of Shadows

Bulge Boogie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerberus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Pockets S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
It's All Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Signs Preceding the End of the World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad Dad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kevin Won 9/2016
Page Views: 191 total, 13/month
Shared By: wonk1132 on Sep 13, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This distinctive line starting below a hanging garden of andesite blocks appears much harder than it is. Start centrally below these chandeliers, wrestling steep moves on an array of massive underclings and sidepulls that transitions to easy edging on garden-variety Klinger terrain above.

Please help extend the life of the Euro-anchor by rapping.

Protection

11 glue-in bolts to a euro-anchor

For whatever reason, euro-anchors confuse the heck out of some climbers as there is only one rap ring. The rig is exceedingly safe (safer than side-by-side bolt anchors) as it it can't extend if one bolt fails. It's made entirely out of 304 stainless steel.

Use your own hardware to top-rope as you always would, then rap off. The ring is welded directly into the bottom hanger, making replacement a real pain. Help maintain the longevity of the ring by not lowering off and not top-roping through the rap-ring.

Location

A distinctive cave-like outcrop with many large vertical block roofs. It's the only route with an overhanging start in the area.

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Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10
Really fun route! Love the challenging start.

I didn't find any loose rock, but did find it helpful to leave draws on bolts 2-4 for anyone TRing after the lead to avoid swinging out from the overhang. Jun 26, 2017
Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
this would be 4 star if not for all the loose rock between the roof section and the headwall, tread lightly and maybe belay from below the roof incase of rock fall.
The roofs at the start are totally outrageous, the chossy nightmare above is a price worth paying ! May 30, 2017