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Routes in Wolcott Spire

Corkscrew Ascent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brandon Chalk & Mike Santoro
Page Views: 95 total, 2/month
Shared By: Brandon Chalk on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. Details

Description

This is a fun, albeit harder, adventurous alternative to the summit of the Wolcott Spire.

A good nut can protect the lower 15' bouldery face climb start (5.9+/5.10a) to the ledge/undercling 20' off the ground. Get good pro (cams) in the cracks under the roof/undercling, and traverse right to the obvious weakness in the north face. Two cam placements and a few 5.9 overhang moves will put you onto the last 15' of the original Corkscrew Route to the summit. Be careful what you pull on and check every hold. There are some loose blocks/holds in the 5.9 crack on the upper face.

The descent is via a rappel down the north face.

Protection

A few nuts, slings, & 4-5 cams in the 0.5" to 3" range
I led the North Face route with Mike Santoro belaying me on May 4, 2014. We believe this to be a FA of the North Face, but again, nothing is for certain in this day & age. Mike then top-roped the North Face as I did after him. Good fun. Oct 6, 2014