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Routes in Stone Wall

Arrogant Bastard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Guardian S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruination S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Supercalibelgolistic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vertical Epic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: (TR) Chris Miller and Lisa Guindon, September 2014, FL: Chris Owen and Chris Miller, September 2014
Page Views: 812 total, 21/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Big positive holds lead up to a thin and fingery crux past the 3rd bolt and then it's fairly easy but still interesting in the middle portion of the route, up an exposed arete and over some highly featured bulges, to a second crux near the top as you power out an undercut bulge utilizing a flower-pot type hold.

A fun moderate that's enjoyable on it's own or as a warm-up for the more difficult routes on the wall.

Location

Starts ten feet left of Old Guardian.

Protection

10 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fun enough, long and worth doing. 3 stars, that's a stretch. Great bolt placements but it wonders a bit and pulls meanders through some boulders in the sky. If you weren't paying attention you'd stop before the summit and use the neighboring route (climbers right) anchor which is at an obvious stance. Which, I wouldn't necessarily recommend using as the move from that ledge is quite fun.

Question Fellas... near the top, say 3 bolts from the anchor you're passing one of those attached bulge/boulders which has an old SMC hanger and bolt. It is not consistent with the rest of the route or immediate neighbors. Shoebox find? It's solid enough but not of the same vintage. Jul 14, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
Long and fun with an intricate start. First lead was an onsight. Sep 29, 2014
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The first bolt on this route can be pre-clipped by leaning across from an adjacent boulder. Sep 28, 2014