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Routes in Main Wall

Amba T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Bengal Spice T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gold Card Indirect, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Card, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Respect Your Elders T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Chris Barlow with help from Becca Schild and Justin Talbot
Page Views: 604 total · 15/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Sep 23, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

In certain tribes in Siberia, Amba refers to a mythical wise old man embodied as a tiger.

Like Siberian tigers, routes as good as this one are rare. Amba, the route, climbs a soaring seam on the steep right panel of the Main Wall. Begin up an easy corner with a few loose blocks and trend up and right along seams to a stance near a ledge of the right edge of the wall. A challenging - and slightly runout - sequence back left lands one below a striking crack up the black streak. Technical boulder problems and thin gear lead up this crack, eventually arcing back into the main dihedral of Respect Your Elders. One can finish on the easier upper corner of that route, or get full value and bust back right and up the final pumpy climbing on the headwall and making hero moves right to the arete and further to the anchor shared with Respect Your Elders.

At the risk of falling into the first-ascentionist-hypebole trap, I wager this is one of the top 5.12 all-trad pitches in the state.

Protection

A double set of cams from purple Metolius to hand-sized, including small nuts and RPs. Take care protecting the sequence getting established at the bottom of the crack; a #1 Camalot or equivalent can be placed high enough to keep you away from the low angle start.

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