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Routes in Main Wall

Amba T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Bengal Spice T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gold Card Indirect, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Card, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Respect Your Elders T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: David Fay
Page Views: 637 total · 13/month
Shared By: David F. on Sep 25, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Gold Card Direct starts at the same place as The Gold Card Indirect and takes the striking line up the center of the main wall for a full 30 meter pitch. Climb through golden, bulletproof granite using a mix of crack and face technique. At mid-height, place a few bomber pieces, and then step up into the dihedral. Work out what parts of the crack to use for gear and what parts to use for your fingers. Consider fishing in a nut above your head before committing to the hard climbing. Smear, layback, and stem up the dihedral. Clip the fixed piton, and make a delicate move left before the roof.

This route was originally climbed in the headpoint style of rehearsing all of the moves and gear on top rope before getting on the sharp end.

Location

Lower off fixed carabiners.

Protection

Standard double rack of cams and a good set of nuts (BD #8).

Photos

Josh Janes    
Is calling this Gold Card Indirect a typo? Sep 26, 2014
I think it is a typo. Direct/Indirect start on the same 50 or so feet of climbing, then the Indirect steps left. I thought David had two different names for the routes, but I guess he went with this. Organizationally, it might be easier to just have "Gold Card" as the main line and "Gold Card Indirect" for the left, easier version. Sep 27, 2014
I liked 'Walk of Shame', but that's a lot of name for a 20-foot variation. Sep 27, 2014
David F.
  5.12a
David F.  
  5.12a
Thanks for noting that, Josh, I have fixed the typo, and Chris, I agree having this route be 'Gold Card' and the other 20 ft variation be 'Gold Card Indirect' will be more clear. These lines are quite obvious once you walk up to the wall. Nov 18, 2014

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