Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: T. Bubb, M. Salazar, 8/3/14
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb is a good route with good moves. The character is edging and pebble-pimping with a finger-lock thrown in a few times. The crux can be protected on a good but small brass nut followed immediately by a textbook-solid small cam, which is heartening, considering that these are between you and a groundfall.

Start up from the ground on good edges and pebbles, climbing close to 20' to reach a seam. You can reach a small, open section in the seam next to a few good edges. Finger-lock this, and place a solid but small brass nut (small RP) in the crack below the fingerlock for security before letting go and getting onto the edges and placing a yellow Alien or equivalent narrow cam in the finger-lock. With care, this can be a bomber placement. Make crux moves to get above gear and place again (similar sized cam) before cruising to the top. A few more placements may be available, but the climbing was fairly moderate.

The name is a reference to the condition of the FA. It was a 'throwback' to earlier times. For lack of a harness, the FA was done by tying into the end of the rope as a seat-harness. It took a moment to remember how to do it.

Location

This is 7 meters to the right of Back To Basics. There is a small seam and a few little openings in it 6 meters off the ground and going to the top of the same cliff band.

Protection

A small brass nut, and 2 0.5"-0.75" narrow cams (i.e. yellow Alien), which are bomber. A few other pieces can also be placed, but those are the crux protection after a runout from the ground.

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