Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft|
|FA:||T. Bubb, M. Salazar, 8/3/14|
|Page Views:||52 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 4, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis climb is a good route with good moves. The character is edging and pebble-pimping with a finger-lock thrown in a few times. The crux can be protected on a good but small brass nut followed immediately by a textbook-solid small cam, which is heartening, considering that these are between you and a groundfall.
Start up from the ground on good edges and pebbles, climbing close to 20' to reach a seam. You can reach a small, open section in the seam next to a few good edges. Finger-lock this, and place a solid but small brass nut (small RP) in the crack below the fingerlock for security before letting go and getting onto the edges and placing a yellow Alien or equivalent narrow cam in the finger-lock. With care, this can be a bomber placement. Make crux moves to get above gear and place again (similar sized cam) before cruising to the top. A few more placements may be available, but the climbing was fairly moderate.
The name is a reference to the condition of the FA. It was a 'throwback' to earlier times. For lack of a harness, the FA was done by tying into the end of the rope as a seat-harness. It took a moment to remember how to do it.
LocationThis is 7 meters to the right of Back To Basics. There is a small seam and a few little openings in it 6 meters off the ground and going to the top of the same cliff band.
- No Photos -