Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||unknown, but long ago...|
|Page Views:||53 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 30, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a pretty good route but with some commitment. The physical crux is through a hand-to-OW sized roof crack, with a mental crux topping out, higher above gear than the gear is above the ground. So don't fall.
We first expected that this route was an FA, but then we found a fixed hex rap station above the first roof, at the end of the crack. It is OLD! I continued the lead to the top of the crag (R/X, 5.? - scary) and topped out on pebbles and smears to the right of a small notch on the summit ridge, only to find a single Star-dryve bolt there (old Leeper hanger) just a few meters further up the hill. Still, this route seems to have no previous documentation. The single Star-dryve bolt can be backed up by a 3" cam back behind and slightly uphill, and by a #3 Camalot in a horizontal further up still, perhaps 30' in all. I used the rope to tied into that to back up the awful bolt anchor.
To descend, wander uphill for a while to a notch, descend into the notch to the East, then squirm back west through a hobbit-hole through the rock and back to the base of the West face.
LocationThis route starts by battling through the obvious fist-ish crack splitting the obvious roof low on the ridge, about 50 meters in elevation above the creek, after perhaps 10 meters hiking along the base.
ProtectionI did the route on a single #4 #3, and #2 (C4) Camalot. That said, I was not psyched about it. I would suggest an old-school #4 for first protection, then the new #4 above that, then above the roof a hand-sized piece once established.
This protects the fist-to-OW crack in the initial roof, after which time you don't need, and can't have any pro anyway... then you get to dance up mellow (5.easy) low angle face to the final few feet of vertical and unprotectable face (please do not fall here, you or your body will need air-lifted if you do) or bail off to one side or the other on easy terrain.