Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Blockhead

Almost Copasetic T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Copasetic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Shaffer et al.
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A route to the climber's left of Copasetic. Instead of starting in the grassy lawn of the gully work your way up a fifth class scramble just outside of a mossy, moist chimney. Belay from a rocky ledge filled with patches of grass and ferns.

The climbing starts out overhung and a bit difficult but seems to protect well with good gear in small cracks. Beware the rock structures sticking out of the wall behind you. Gain about 30 feet of altitude to easier climbing and have yourself a good ole time with a plethora of juggy holds in a series of bomber crack systems.

Overall the route finding is a touch easier than its counterpart to the right. The climbing is athletically vigorous and mostly sustained without becoming too blue collar. Can be described as a Scary Larry route taken down a notch or two. Most movements are fluid and fun with excellent opportunities to rest and place protection on good stances.

Do the blocky summit if you wish. We didn't bother.

Location

Right side of the four-five gully just slightly down the hill from Eyetooth.

Protection

Standard Rack. Bring lots of nuts and longer slings. Double up on Camalots 0.5 - 4 if you really want to sew it up. Shares same anchors as Copasetic and raps to its base.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments