Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Shaffer et al.
Page Views: 700 total · 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A route to the climber's left of Copasetic. Instead of starting in the grassy lawn of the gully work your way up a fifth class scramble just outside of a mossy, moist chimney. Belay from a rocky ledge filled with patches of grass and ferns.

The climbing starts out overhung and a bit difficult but seems to protect well with good gear in small cracks. Beware the rock structures sticking out of the wall behind you. Gain about 30 feet of altitude to easier climbing and have yourself a good ole time with a plethora of juggy holds in a series of bomber crack systems.

Overall the route finding is a touch easier than its counterpart to the right. The climbing is athletically vigorous and mostly sustained without becoming too blue collar. Can be described as a Scary Larry route taken down a notch or two. Most movements are fluid and fun with excellent opportunities to rest and place protection on good stances.

Do the blocky summit if you wish. We didn't bother.

Location Suggest change

Right side of the four-five gully just slightly down the hill from Eyetooth.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack. Bring lots of nuts and longer slings. Double up on Camalots 0.5 - 4 if you really want to sew it up. Shares same anchors as Copasetic and raps to its base.

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