Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Poets Left

Dryads S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Homeric Verses, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iris S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kavafis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mustass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quando Tramonta il Sol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saxonia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomas Michailides
Page Views: 85 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Jul 10, 2014
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb is composed of a scrambly approach pitch followed by a fantastic, long, steep corner. You can't see the money pitch from the ground and for this reason I think the route is often overlooked despite the fact that the guidebook gives it the highest star rating.

The short approach pitch is little more than a scramble but its steep; probably wise to use a rope here. Begin climbing up the obvious weakness directly above the painted route name, following the path of least resistance through the occasional oregano bush. Keep an eye out for the two bolts that protect this 20 meter section. Although the approach pitch is sort of a pain in the butt, the climb itself is extremely unique for the area and worth the hassle.

Now for the business. Climb nearly 30 meters up a well protected dihedral with a crack. Liebacking is the name of the game, and though quite strenuous at times, there are good rests to milk when you get pumped. At one point the crack disappears for a short distance but don't despair; feel around for a hidden pocket to pull on.

Lower from top anchor and then rappel to the ground.

Location

This route is on the far left side of Poets. You can't see the meat of the route from the ground. Look for the painted route name at the base.

Protection

Bolts. Rappel station at top of approach pitch (look to climbers left).

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments