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Routes in The Emperor Wall

Emperor Wall, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Finback S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fire Danger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peoples Buttress, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Justin Talbot and Reuben Lewis, 2010
Page Views: 96 total, 2/month
Shared By: Justin Talbot on Jul 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Ten draws are needed for this fun, bolt protected route that can be broken into three short pitches. There are good coffee table-sized belay ledges.

P1. .10b, 70'. This is nice climbing out an arch to a corner.

P2. .10d, 90'. This is pumpy climbing on good edges.

P3. .10b, 60'. Climb left onto the face at the last bolt (.10b) or balance straight up the corner (.11b).

Rap the route with one 60m rope.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Dougald MacDonald  
5.11a/b
Quite the adventure for three sport pitches. We both thought the first pitch might be 5.11: unless we both missed several big holds, there's no way it's 10b. It's possible to skirt the crux of the second pitch by following the last two bolts of the variation to the right, but this is still 5.10, and it's probably much better to climb straight up. Climbing straight up the final corner on the third pitch until a hard step left above the final bolt seems like the only obvious way to go and felt like 5.11 to us.
Jul 5, 2015