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Routes in Merlin Dome

Magic Flute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 911 total, 21/month
Shared By: Matt N on May 8, 2014
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1 – 3 bolts, the 3rd is located just above the prominent rock scar and small (~18”) “roof”. We started farther right near a left-facing dihedral, then traversed left (after downclimbing) when the first bolt was finally spotted. Unsure of direct start difficulty. 2nd bolt hanger was damaged from rockfall (presumably the scar directly above, between bolts 2/3, which altered the route). We traversed directly left from bolt 2 to an arête, then up a flake (gear), passing left of the third bolt (now skipped) to the belay. (5.7, ~160-190’ depending on route taken)

P2 – 5 bolts, fairly straightforward (5.8, ~180’)

P3 – gear, we trended left, then back right (other options exist). Bolted belay is directly above P2 belay (5.7, ~180’)

P4 – gear, wander upwards, finding a gear belay when possible (5.6, ~180’)

100’ of 4th class to finish. Descent: walk climber’s right, then down the gully and back to the base or road. First 3 pitches have bolted belays. It is possible to rappel with two ropes – bring slings and rings, as needed, but the walk off isn’t bad. Route may be shaded by mid-afternoon.

Location

Approach: park in pullout directly adjacent to the dome. Easy scramble up a rock gully, climber’s left of dome – 10min. Located on the left side of the dome, fairly close to the approach gully.

Protection

Rack: draws, nuts, single set cams .4-2.5”
Buttonheads with SMC hangers for just about all bolts.

Photos

Kent Rogers
Beaver, PA
Kent Rogers   Beaver, PA
Merlin Dome center: Abracadabra: five pitches of 5.8/9. Face and flake climbing, some run outs but not too scary. 2, 1/4" bolts with SMC hangers on p2. Apr 25, 2016
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Buttonheads with SMC hangers for just about all of them, IIRC.

Uploaded a pic, as I'd never seen a homestyled one of that ilk (see pic). Jun 3, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Can you comment on the fixed gear? Are they modern bolts?..Old-school scary-stuff? Thanks! Jun 2, 2014