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Routes in Merlin Dome

Magic Flute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 571 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ken H on Mar 11, 2014
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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No idea what this route really is but we went up to Merlin Dome to have a look around and chose to climb a Dihedral we found.

We did the route as 3 pitchs which were probably around 100-150 ft long each.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 to a tree belay
Pitch 2 - 5.7 to a nice ledge
Pitch 3 - 5.7 PG to a ledge at the base of a slab

Descent: Down climbed a 3rd class rap to climbers right. Then down climb or down led if needed a 4th class gully to gain the base of the dome and walked back to our gear.


I would locate this some where on the right side of Merlin Dome. Probably right of Magic Flute (though I have no idea where that actually is).


Standard Trad Rack will do. Pitch 3 has some loose rock and is wandery; we had double ropes.


Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Looks like Merlin to me. Topped out Magic Flute and walking back to the base, we passed a few dihedrals/pillar systems. Merlin Dome was way wider than we thought. May 5, 2014
I think this route is not actually on Merlin Dome but on a feature to the left. As you are coming up the road from the south this is on the first rock found directly above the road on the left. Merlin Dome proper is another few hundred yards north. May 5, 2014