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Routes in 19 Mile Wall

Fudgecicle Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Era T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoop Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Swayze Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 129 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Apr 28, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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This climb is located to the left of the obvious chimney/crack and is named after the belayer on the first ascent who was tied to a tree all day and never did get to climb. Start in a flaring crack that improves as you get higher. A fixed pin protects the reachy moves through the crux. Pull the crux and move into a corner stem the corner and climb the crack to the top. This route is not difficult but is fun and protects well. It should be climbed more to clean it up.


This is the middle route of three climbs on the wall.


Standard rack to 4 inches, additional 2-3" pieces are helpful. You may want to bring a piece of webbing in order to rappel from a bolted anchor. 1 60-meter rope should get you to the ground.


PG13 is a bit of a stretch. The route protects well all the way and has one crux move right before you gain the upper corner section. FA. M. Weber, G. Shoop Aug 27, 2015
Climbed it today and it was fun. Bushwhack approach is much better in the spring or late fall. Watch the orange lichen at the crux, its a bit slick. Fixed pin for the crux is still there, it should be tied off not clipped if you use it. I was able to back up the pin with a near by stopper.

The grade may be closer to 5.8 than 5.7. We used a 70m rope and had lots of rope left over. A 60m may reach but no promises.

Aug 29, 2015

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