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Routes in 19 Mile Wall

Fudgecicle Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Era T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoop Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Swayze Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Mike Weber, Ryan Sims, Eric Christensen
Page Views: 88 total · 7/month
Shared By: weber907 on May 19, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description [Edit]

Super fun route with some great moves!

Climb a clean crack with plenty of face holds (5.7ish) gear to 4". As the crack disappears clip a bolt on the face and move toward the roof above. A good cam between the 1st and 2nd bolt protects the crux. The crux is a series of off balance moves into the roof/arete section. Follow the bolts to the top.

Use the same anchor as "Shoop Dog". Rap from ring anchors.

Location [Edit]

This is a new bolted finish to "New Era". The second obvious crack lookers left of the big chimney. Start on a grassy ledge with a good drop below. Might continue this route below the ledge in the future.

Protection [Edit]

Small to medium stoppers, cams to 4". 5 bolts.

Photos

weber907  
 
Bring a wire brush and scrub off some lichen/moss, it could use a bit more cleaning. May 20, 2017

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