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Routes in Toni Harp Bloc

FIFM V5-6 6C+
Kyle's Crack V1 5 R
Magical Thinking V7 7A+ R
Toni Harp V3 6A R
Toni Harp's Resignation V4-5 6B+ R
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Alex Krampovitis
Page Views: 229 total, 5/month
Shared By: FooDawg on Apr 22, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

The line starts on the giant flake, pops out to a cool pinch, then stretch for the rail, topout isn't as easy as it looks, pretty slopey, but popping up to the higher ledge reveals a bucket jug.

Beta video of the FA:

http://youtu.be/PemcKwjBfSs

Location

See the beta photo for location as well! This wall is literally in the same area as the Toni Harp wall, just around the corner, more towards the inside corner of the larger walls. The flake is very obvious. Basically climb up the large blocks until you see the giant flake.

Tree is the downclimb, very sturdy and has large knots to use as holds.

Protection

One pad was enough, but two are recommended, along with a spotter, because the first move to the pinch could easily result in sliding down the starting bloc...

Photos

Hi Foo,

What does FIFM stand for?

Thanks Apr 24, 2014
FooDawg
New Haven, CT
 
FooDawg   New Haven, CT
 
Oh yeah, and I would like to hear from others who send this on grade, I think it is mostly tricky than hard, but I will stick with v5/6 until I get some more consensus. Think it's pretty style dependent honestly... Apr 22, 2014
FooDawg
New Haven, CT
 
FooDawg   New Haven, CT
 
This is a tricky problem, I suggest you work the moves before you watch any beta on it. It was pretty rewarding to figure this one out! Apr 22, 2014