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Routes in Toni Harp Bloc

FIFM V5-6 6C+
Kyle's Crack V1 5 R
Magical Thinking V7 7A+ R
Toni Harp V3 6A R
Toni Harp's Resignation V4-5 6B+ R
Elevation: 128 ft
GPS: 41.332, -72.959 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,403 total, 31/month
Shared By: FooDawg on Apr 1, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

Shady wall and area. Needs a little extra time to dry after rain. Wall is slightly overhung and provides three great climbs with one project line. Some holds down low are slightly crumbly, but are cleaning up really nice as it's being climbed on. The wall itself is slightly detached from the wall behind it, but it has been extremely solid to climb on so far...

Getting There

The most convenient parking is at the adjacent lots to the ballfields (Located off Valley St & Hard St). From there hike up behind the baseball diamond headed to the right. After the second trail junction to the left hike up over the 8' mound into the small old quarry. The bouldering is to the left and routes straight ahead.

Additionally, from the main parking area on top of the Ballfield Slabs, follow the red trail down the right part of the ridge and when you make it to the base hook it right and follow the unmarked trail towards the baseball fields. As you are walking along, you will see an inset area to the right that looks like a camp site. The wall is in that area right beyond the big "HBO" boulder laying on the ground.

5 Total Climbs

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Photos

FooDawg
New Haven, CT
FooDawg   New Haven, CT
I saw them a few weeks ago, they are pretty hilarious aren't they lol. Not sure who put them up there, seeing as they aren't very necessary since you can see everything on the bloc... But, we will brush them tomorrow when we go out there... Apr 22, 2014
To whomever left the egregious ticks on "Magical Thinking,"

Please brush them after your sessions. There is enough litter and graffiti left around the base of WR and we don't need more.

Thanks. Apr 20, 2014
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Those fuckers camping in there are also trashing the area. I cleaned a bit last time and piled it all up on their firepit so they might take notice, if they give anyone any shit I'd call the cops and tell them about a psycho with a knife.

Someone went through the whole area recently and cut vines off of trees, mostly poison ivy that was choking them out, check it out, it was quite a bit of work.

tshirt for craprock- cafepress.com/cp/customize/…

the block made it through this freeze/thaw cycle, its probably good for another year or two Apr 3, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Haha thanks CK! Got any ascents on this block or other routes you want to record? We organized an adopt-a-crag here last year and cleaned a lot of garbage out.. including all the lead pipes ;-)Still haven't come across any homeless people back there, just the signs they were there. Frankly, more climbers = less homeless people and a cleaner area. As for gluing holds, huh? where did you glue because I've only been climbin in CT 15 yrs and I only know of one glued hold. Oh and I deleted your back scratcher comment. Apr 3, 2014
FooDawg
New Haven, CT
FooDawg   New Haven, CT
I'd be interested to see what comes of the prying. Bloc has been super solid for us, but testing it to make sure is the best thing to do. Thanks for checking it out for everyone Morgan! Looking forward to the update... Apr 2, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
A 24" pry bar... or a longer 5' pry bar. I'll be there tomorrow after work and we'll do some due diligence on it. Apr 2, 2014
czd
czd  
Any advice for testing it besides standing on the topout and trying to push it off with my legs (which I've done quite a bit of)? Besides the optics of it, its never felt the slightest bit lose, its never budged a millimeter and the block itself does not resonate as if its hollow or completely detached (as in the crack is not crazy deep), but I'd be interested if you had some advice for more thorough tests. Apr 2, 2014

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