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Routes in Lower Hackberry

Code Walker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft
FA: Zac Warren and Roy Suggett
Page Views: 1,504 total, 33/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Apr 5, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

CLIMB: Hacker's Tower in the lower end of the canyon.

ROUTE: Code Walker

DESCRIPTION: This formidable and fantastic tower currently has only one line on it, though there are other possibilities. The current line is out of the vision of most of the hiker traffic well below in the canyon. To reach the climb, hike up the canyon about a mile, passing many great climbing possibilities until you are just under the southeast corner of Hackers Tower. Follow the faint trail, cairns, and the line of least resistance up to the northeast corner where the staging area is located.

SEASON: Maybe February to June depending on the cold or the heat.

Pitch I: Code Walker is by design a circuitous route that walks its way around the tower (see topo below). It starts on a hook on the east wall in a small cut out which eventually becomes the east/north wall arête. After gaining some height in aiders, sew up some small cracks and start free climbing. After placing a bit more pro you gain the arête and clip the only bolt on the east face and pull around to the north side on to a dark band (presumably/hopefully more iron) that diagonals slightly up and across the north face. Move cautiously right through the band clipping bolts. Like most rock stars, leave the band clipping the eighth and final bolt of the pitch prior to climbing up and right at the north/west wall arête where you reach a two bolt belay on a small four inch wide stance that is about five feet in length. This ends the first pitch.

Pitch II: Head straight up clipping bolts in the direction of a protruding shoulder formation. The bolt line takes you left around this bulge passing pockets where a BD #5, and #4, respectively, and optional, can be used and should be runnered. These placements are not in the best of rock (NOTE THE CAM SCARS). Gain the top of this formation and head up and right toward the obvious weakness in the cap rock. The climbing so far on this second pitch is almost entirely in aiders. Get use to that top step. Follow the line to the overhanging cap rock and two (thank god) small ledges, clipping the final or 12th bolt of pitch II, moving up and over to the glorious summit. A register is attached to the two bolt anchor. Have the second bring up the camera to take some shots up and down the red rock ribbon gently winding well below. The canyon takes the water of the Hackberry toward the Paria and eventually the Colorado River at Lees Ferry and on to Mexico, though sadly, no longer to the Sea of Cortez. The sparkling waters, green shimmers of the Cottonwoods, juxtaposed against the red, the blue sky, and drifting white clouds make for a euphoric summit experience.

DESCENT: Rap off of the north face with two 60 meter ropes and back to the staging area.

Location

About a mile into the lower end of the canyon. You can not miss it!
Work up the faint trail following cairns to the northeast corner.

Protection

GEAR: An assortment of small wires and cams (Metolious 00), singles of BD .5 through a 5, some kind of aid hook(s) (a Talon works well) aiders, 16 quick draws, 5 shoulder length and 2 long runners. Two 60 meter ropes.
RATING: 5.9+ C2 The first pitch can go almost entirely free at 5.11 with the exception of the first moves. If you bail at the end of this pitch you will need two ropes to reach the bottom of the west side. The second pitch is almost entirely in aiders and also needs two ropes to rap and reach the north side staging area.
Roy Suggett  
 
As of 11/25/14 only two parties have submitted...or so I believe. Nov 25, 2014
Grey Fox
  5.11a C1
Grey Fox  
  5.11a C1
Outstanding approach to the climb, almost didn't make the climb because of so many other good lines, but well worth the wait.

Come with a good head because the first pitch is challenging on all fronts! A talon is probably the best tool for the first move followed by a set of micro whatever cause it's thin to the first bolt. Repeat climbs may make this start more difficult as it wears away the stone.

First move after the first bolt is committing and just sets you up for the rest of the pitch. A long runner is recommended to reduce rope drag but just adds to the headiness at the same time.

Just another example of the great work of Roy "the silver fox"! Your welcome Roy! Jun 2, 2014
Johnny Victor
Joshua Tree
Johnny Victor   Joshua Tree
Great hike to the base 90% is in the canyon wash The start is a little tough to piece together. Once your on the traverse the protection is excellent! A bolt ladder to the top, enjoy the view and a fun start rappel to the base. Have fun Be Safe. May 28, 2014
BSU_Zac
  5.9+ C2
BSU_Zac  
  5.9+ C2
Glad to have finally finished this hidden gem. Hope it is enjoyed. When we began we thought the upper face would have gone with minimal bolting and a decent amount of free climbing but once we finished the first pitch we realized that all but about 15' would have to be a bolt ladder. Apr 22, 2014
Roy Suggett  
 
This tower took some time to put up. We started by carrying loads across the ice in yak tracks. Then little by little pushing forward. Cold weather, work, and other issues made this project drag on but none the less...it's a hoot! Hope somebody else thinks so too. Apr 11, 2014